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台灣設計師示範如何以天然染料推廣可持續時裝

Lin Jie-Yi
Taiwanese natural-dye enthusiast Lin Jie-Yi has won awards for her designs. Photo by Charlie Smith

[台灣天然染料愛好者林潔怡的設計屢獲殊榮。圖片來源:Charlie Smith。]

在台灣城市高雄共同創辦大地工作坊的林潔怡,憑著於設計中加入天然染料,於2021年獲頒授「中華民國服裝甲級女裝技術士

這名客家職人最近到訪溫哥華並接受Pancouver訪問,透露自己與父母一同經營大地工作坊。(Pancouver副編輯Becky Tu 翻譯了國語訪談內容。)

林潔怡親自設計了上圖以天然染料上色,名為「尋找記憶」的長裙,其更加成為固蘭湖島上溫哥華新年藝術節「台灣色」展覽的其中一項展品。

再者,這件服裝反映了林潔怡對可持續設計的熱忱,而她亦憑藉這股熱誠獲得多個獎項。她的作品亦曾經在東京、慕尼黑、巴黎和北京的設計展覽上展出。

她希望分享透過植物和天然元素創作藝術的知識。

Sun Tsui Lan
Designer Sun Tsui Lan says that apricot plants provide natural dyes in Yilan County, which is what inspired her yellow and green dress at the Colours of Formosa exhibition.

[設計師孫翠蘭表示自己在宜蘭縣從杏樹提取天然染料,也是她在「台灣色」展出的黃綠色長裙的靈感來源。]

台灣設計師從不同植物提取染料

另一名客家設計師孫翠蘭亦於「台灣色」展示其作品。她居住於首都台北以南大約60公里的宜蘭縣。

身為宜蘭染工坊發展協會理事長的她以國語向Pancouver表示,台灣東北部盛產各式各樣的水果,而上圖以天然染料上色的黃綠長裙,就是受宜蘭常見的杏樹所啟發而創作的。

她說自己的作品與環保主義和回歸大自然息息相關。當人們摘下果實後,就可以隨意重用和循環再用,以製成染料。

她亦期望自己的設計可以喚起世界對宜蘭的關注,當地長期面對潮濕海風吹襲的問題。

Chung Meng-Chuan
Chung Meng-Chuan relied on persimmons for dyeing this dress at the exhibition. Photo by Charlie Smith.

[鍾夢娟展出的長裙所用到的染料由柿子製成。 圖片來源:Charlie Smith。]

新埔的柿染工藝

在宜蘭以東126公里外的新竹縣新埔鎮,人們經常以另一種水果為原材料,為布料及其他產品染色。來自新竹縣柿染文化協會的鍾夢娟以國語向Pancouver說,該協會在18年前創立,目的是推廣以柿子為布料及工藝品上色。

鍾夢娟在多年前發現柿子能為布料上色。於是她聯絡上陳景林和妻子馬毓秀兩名台灣天然染料專家。他們更加是天染工坊的創辦人,亦是這個領域的國際權威。

由鍾夢娟擔任總幹事的新竹縣柿染文化協會,最初的宗旨是鼓勵當地人在日常生活中多加利用柿子。雖然柿的外表與番茄相近,但實際上它是一種苺果。協會的成員知道,以柿皮製作染料,是創造價值的新渠道。

她表示,柿子染料的顏色可以維持一段很長時間,比起其他天然染料更為耐曬。

Persimmon
The Colours of Formosa exhibited persimmon-dyed crafts to like a tasty meal. Photo by Charlie Smith.

[「台灣色」展覽將柿染工藝品陳列成枱上的美食。圖片來源:Charlie Smith。]

日本及南韓職人多年來以柿子製成染料,現在經台灣藝術家引入當地後已引起熱潮。

由於這些產品大受歡迎,新竹縣柿染文化協會更開始鼓勵藝術家將柿染工藝品和布料出口到國外。

鍾夢娟稱,協會希望將產品帶到世界舞台上。

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Pancouver aims to build a more equal and empathetic society by advancing appreciation of visual and performing arts—and cultural communities—through education. Our goal is to elevate awareness about underrepresented artists and their organizations.

The Society of We Are Canadians Too created Pancouver to foster greater appreciation for underrepresented artistic communities. A rising tide of understanding lifts all of us.

We would like to acknowledge that we are gathered on the traditional and unceded territories of the Coast Salish peoples of the xʷməθkwəy̓əm (Musqueam Indian Band), Skwxwú7mesh (Squamish Nation), and Səl̓ílwətaɬ (Tsleil-Waututh Nation). With this acknowledgement, we thank the Indigenous peoples who still live on and care for this land.

Support us

Pancouver strives to build a more equal and empathetic society by advancing appreciation of visual and performing arts—and cultural communities—through education. Our goal is to elevate awareness about underrepresented artists and the organizations that support them. 

The Society of We Are Canadians Too created Pancouver to foster greater appreciation for underrepresented artistic communities. A rising tide of understanding lifts all of us.

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We would like to acknowledge that we are gathered on the traditional and unceded territories of the Coast Salish peoples of the xʷməθkwəy̓əm (Musqueam), Skwxwú7mesh (Squamish), and Səl̓ílwətaɬ (Tsleil-Waututh) Nations. With this acknowledgement, we thank the Indigenous peoples who still live on and care for this land.